Paris Fashion Week SS27 brings the spring/summer 2027 season to a close with one of its most closely watched schedules in years, spanning legacy houses, returning favourites, and a pair of designer debuts that have been generating quiet but persistent chatter since they were announced.
Town can keep its own fashion weeks, frankly. Paris is where the season either confirms itself or gets complicated. This time around, it is doing both.
Paris Fashion Week SS27: The New Guard at the Heritage Houses
The biggest conversation starter on the schedule is Matthieu Blazy’s second spring/summer collection for Chanel. His first outing at the house was watched with the kind of forensic attention usually reserved for Wimbledon finals, and the follow-up will receive no less scrutiny. Blazy’s approach to Chanel’s codes, including what the house might do with the naked shoe, is being tracked carefully by those who follow such things.
There is more to the Blazy-Chanel story than the Paris runway alone. Haute Living reports that Blazy will present his Cruise 2027/28 collection in Deauville on 27 April 2027, a location freighted with meaning, given that it was in Deauville that Gabrielle Chanel introduced her first fashion pieces and opened her first boutique in 1912. The choice of venue is not incidental.
His couture work gives some indication of where his thinking sits. According to Harper’s Bazaar, Blazy’s Chanel Haute Couture 2027 collection arrived as a fairy tale-inspired world built around handcrafted beadwork and floral embroidery. Backstage, Blazy offered a more grounded explanation: the collection is really about, in his words, ‘the adventure of the everyday.’ Make of that what you will, but it suggests a designer interested in the friction between spectacle and the ordinary.
Elsewhere among the established houses, Jonathan Anderson and Michael Rider continue to develop their respective visions at Dior and Celine. Sarah Burton shows at Givenchy, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten, and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga. Each of those names brings their own narrative weight to the week, and the cumulative effect is a schedule that feels more settled than the handover frenzy of a couple of seasons ago.
Emerging Names, Returning Faces, and Two Proper Debuts
Paris Fashion Week SS27 is not all heritage drama. The emerging end of the schedule carries its own interest. Recent LVMH Prize winner Julie Kegels shows on Monday afternoon and is among the most anticipated of the smaller presentations. Fidan Novruzova makes her Paris debut, while Situationist, the Georgian label associated with sharp, architectural tailoring, returns to the calendar. Zomer, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, and Matières Fécales are also back, the last of those reliably landing somewhere between provocation and delight on the runway.
Among the returning names at the established level, Valentino is back after taking its fall 2026 show to Rome, and Maison Margiela follows a collection presented in Shanghai. Ester Manas, Sacai, and Christopher Esber also return to the Paris schedule after periods away.
As for genuine debuts, the list is shorter than recent seasons might have led anyone to expect. Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven are the two. Henry’s task is a substantial one: building on Nicolas Di Felice’s revival of the Space Age house, with all the expectation that brings. Nesselrath at Carven is the less-discussed of the two but worth attention.
After several seasons of near-constant creative director turnover, the relative calm of this schedule feels like its own kind of statement. Paris Fashion Week SS27 is less about who just arrived and more about what they do now they are here. The Deauville date in April will tell us something more about where Blazy is taking Chanel next.
